Cigar Molds Thread
- Thread starter Hopduro
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- Mar 15, 2016
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That thing had aesthetic value nailed to a wall. But bunching and wrapping that thing would be a bitch, and not something you'd want to have to do 10 times.
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- Aug 12, 2016
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No doubt lol. I was wondering how that would even work? I've never seen a cigar in that tear drop shape. I think you'd have to bunch a thick core filler and pinch smaller pieces off as you roll it to taper down?
Damnit now I want it
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For making crooks.
Here is good. What do you need?
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=Cigar Mold&_sop=10&_ipg=192
https://www.ebay.com/sch/lcastrochest/m.html?item=273799338579&hash=item3fbfb65a53:g:FvkAAOSwYTtcL-2i&rt=nc&_dmd=2
https://www.wholeleaftobacco.com/cat/cigar-tobaccos/professional-cigar-molds-and-chavetas/
https://www.ebay.com/sch/lcastrochest/m.html?item=273799338579&hash=item3fbfb65a53:g:FvkAAOSwYTtcL-2i&rt=nc&_dmd=2
https://www.wholeleaftobacco.com/cat/cigar-tobaccos/professional-cigar-molds-and-chavetas/
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- Joined
- Apr 16, 2019
- Messages
- 18
Just looking for some beginner sets. All I have now is a 2-fer that came in my LeafOnly starter kit, but looking to expand to something larger. Just something basic like robusto for now, but would like to get into perfectos and torpedo's in the future. Also if anyone could enlighten me on the difference between old style wood ones and the newer plastic ones, i'd be curious to hear!
Most all of us prefer the wood to plastic. Plastic will last longer, but doesn't absorb moisture like the wood does. I have both and use them equally, but I prefer wood.
Sounds good. The mold you have is not inter-locking. the idea is the inter-locking assists in eliminating the crease.
http://cigarsoftampa.com/millerdubrul.html
Wood does allow some drying where plastic does not.
http://cigarsoftampa.com/millerdubrul.html
Wood does allow some drying where plastic does not.
This seller has been used by rollers in this forum.. https://www.ebay.com/sch/lcastrochest/m.html?item=273799338579&hash=item3fbfb65a53:g:FvkAAOSwYTtcL-2i&rt=nc&_dmd=2
http://www.botl.org/threads/adventures-in-home-rolling.79290/page-135#post-2123451
I believe this seller has also been used by rollers in this forum.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/rollerschoice/m.html?item=123721613418&hash=item1cce62006a:g:easAAOSwpvRcpW11&rt=nc&_dmd=2
http://www.botl.org/threads/adventures-in-home-rolling.79290/page-135#post-2123451
I believe this seller has also been used by rollers in this forum.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/rollerschoice/m.html?item=123721613418&hash=item1cce62006a:g:easAAOSwpvRcpW11&rt=nc&_dmd=2
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- Joined
- Apr 16, 2019
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- 18
How long should I let them sit before testing one out for draw/construction etc? I heard some people say drybox them for a month, others say just smoke them. For my first attempt I did rotate them, but its kind of a pain because the beginner mold has no structure pins, so my clamps were wonky and it was a nuisance. (Most of the reason why i'm looking for a nice mold as we speak haha)
Depends how wet your filler is, I dry box for a few days and try em
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..and/or you can rotate till it dries some before applying the wrapper to speed things up. if your like I was (most likely the rest of us?) you'll want to burn something.
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- Mar 15, 2016
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- 2,956
Test for draw as soon as you're finished with the mold time, whether that's 1.5 hours or days. When you think the bunch is wrap-ready, that's the time to check the draw. It's wrap-ready when it's smooth and shapely and you're eager to wrap it. Now, let's say you're just learning a new vitola and you want to put like 6-10 bunches in your mold: a smart thing would be to bunch a few, get them wrap-ready, and check their draw. If it sucks, modify your next couple with more or less firm-feel in your hands. Mold those. Repeat.
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