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Car audio wiring.

TravelingJ

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My girlfriend bought us a sub and amp for Christmas. Looking to redo some of the wiring in out truck at this point. Previously I was running an 800 watt power inverter off of a 4 AWG wire. That died on my 2 weeks ago, so I just ordered a 1000 watt inverter to replace it.

My first question, is can I just run back a 1/0 AWG wire to a distribution block, and then run that to the amp and the inverter? Would the inverter cause noise on those amp lines?

Also, I need suggestions for interconnects. I know the ones the amp came with are pure shit, but I am not sure how high up the ladder I need to go to get something decent. Not looking for competition quality sound, we have too much road noise for that. The sub will stay dialed down for the most part, to just round out the music some.
 
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I'm a little lost on this post. I'm by no means an expert in the field of car audio, but I've done some installs. I'm perplexed as to what the inverter is for? Normally, the amp for the sub runs off DC power. Only time I can think of that you would need an inverter is if you had a system for music in your house, but moved it to your car. I guess I'm just a little confused.
 

TravelingJ

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Sorry. I'll explain more!

Our truck is our office as well as our workshop, and lounge. Mobile everything, really. The inverter has nothing to do with the stereo system. It is in place to power our laptops, printer, battery chargers, etc. It's running nearly every time the truck is running, to keep the laptop charged at a minimum.
 

Zedman05

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My experience in stereos is that if you are running that inverter off the distribution block, you won't get enough "noise" in the sub amp to make any audible difference.
Now that said, the very first thing I would do in your case is upgrade the alternator. I do not know what size it is, but I have run into a lot of people having problems with too much juice drawing off the alternator and killing it. I have never had that problem, but if you are running that much stuff off the inverter, then you must be drawing major amps. 1 gu/ 0 ot wire should suffice to the distribution block.
As for connections, I am not too informative on that topic, as I just used any decently rated gold-plated connectors that were suggested to me at the local quality audio shop. I have bought all kinds in my car audio days from the cheapie "gets me by till I can afford nice ones" cables from Radio Shack, to the nicer Phoenix Gold or Monster Audio gold plated super-shielded top quality ones, and to be honest, I never noticed that much of a difference to justify the money. Speaker quality means so much more in my opinion.
Hope that helps. :dunno:
 

TravelingJ

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Thanks. I've been thinking about upping the alternator, but so far I've never had an issue with it, knock on wood. 65k miles per year, and that part is still original. I figure if/when it dies, I will certainly upgrade it. I only picked the inverter I did for the remote power switch. On my previous one, I had cut the control panel off of the front and extended the wires to the front so I could turn it on and off. Decided this time, I didn't want to cut into new electronics.

I'm toying with the idea of prewiring for a 4 channel amp to upgrade the door speakers as well, still trying to convince her on that one. She has agreed to new speakers, but still has to be convinced on the amp. I'd just like to get all those wires run at once, and safe ripping out the seats and dash if I can.
 
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ramintop what professional help, not at all when choosing components and the scheme that you see is made by me in Paint .
professional help come when Kenwood speakers and power suplay for amplific are mounted. i have to cut some parts of my car in the rear to put those Kenwood speakers.

pioneer is my preferred choice for sound in car, so for me you have done the right choice with pioner cd player and with speakers to. i will recomend you to put two more speakers pioner if you can and if you love bass like i am a sub-woofer is a must .
 
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