I have a Glock 27 question for those in the know: What are the pros and cons of changing the spring from 8 pounds to 5 pounds? If you have experience with both, please post. Does a lighter trigger pull enable better accuracy at distances beyond 15 yards or so? Any info is much appreciated.
Glock trigger pull
- Thread starter heavyd
- Start date
A lighter pull is a crutch for shooters who don't have the fundamentals down.
If you can't shoot the gun well now, you'll be marginally better with the 5. That said, I believe the 5 is typically what comes stock. I know it is on some models, and just assume it is for all. I like my 17's trigger just fine. Depending on how you go about changing the trigger, you may end up with a very mushy trigger - ruining the break and reset.
Before you buy money on parts, it might be worth doing the 25 cent trigger job, which polishes contact surfaces in the fire control group. Makes things a lot nicer, and skips the thousands of rounds necessary to reach that break-in level.
If you can't shoot the gun well now, you'll be marginally better with the 5. That said, I believe the 5 is typically what comes stock. I know it is on some models, and just assume it is for all. I like my 17's trigger just fine. Depending on how you go about changing the trigger, you may end up with a very mushy trigger - ruining the break and reset.
Before you buy money on parts, it might be worth doing the 25 cent trigger job, which polishes contact surfaces in the fire control group. Makes things a lot nicer, and skips the thousands of rounds necessary to reach that break-in level.
Yes changing to a normal trigger spring will assist with accuracy. The 8lb trigger springs were made for the NYPD to assist the officers who were originally issued revolvers transition to the Glock. You may have to replace the connector too as that is really what determines the pull weight. I forget the combo used in the factory heavy trigger guns but PM me and I can tell you what you need if you can strip it down and let me know what spring and connector are in there now.
I have found this to not be true on the 8 or 12 pound glocks. These were done for compliance with some state laws and they are horrible to shoot. All other factory glocks (except 34/35) come with the standard 5.5lb connector and standard spring.
So why do good shooters with DA/SA guns have no problem shooting heavy triggers like that? Current back-to-back USPSA Production champion is Ben Stoeger who exclusively shoots a Beretta 92.
Are they less fun to shoot? Yes. Do they take more training? Yes. Do they hinder accuracy? No.
Are they less fun to shoot? Yes. Do they take more training? Yes. Do they hinder accuracy? No.
Trust me I'll send you a NY2 trigger spring and you can see for yourself. There are very few handguns even revolvers with triggers designed to be around 12 lbs. I can't even think of a factory handgun with over 7lbs trigger pull that was designed that way and not for state compliance. And I'm from Mass .... We know all about horrific triggers due to our AG's "safety regulations".
While I do agree the fundamentals are the same I'm stating that the Glock platform was never designed to have over 5.5# of pull and the models that do are for regulatory compliance only.
So, in a competition where at the Pro level... every tenth of a second, every round, and every bit of accuracy matters... where there are frequently tight shots at 25 yards and beyond on the draw... Why haven't they all dumped their DA/SA guns for something with a lighter pull? The 10+ lbs on the first trigger press doesn't matter because they have mastered the fundamentals.
Which is an entirely different conversation.
Heavy, if you want to wring more accuracy out of your shooting... dry fire the bejesus out of your gun. A very helpful guide is Stoeger's book: http://www.amazon.com/Practical-Pistol-Fundamental-Techniques-Competition/dp/1482009978/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1367695396&sr=1-2. There are also a few other quality dry fire guides written by top level shooters.
If you're looking for a hardware change, a full, or even mid, size gun would be more beneficial than swapping trigger configurations. Attributes such as a longer sight radius make your learning a lot easier.
There's a lot of good info on handgun-specific boards, such as:
http://pistol-forum.com/forum.php
and http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?act=idx
Thanks fellas...great info. I'm a good shot, but my accuracy at distance is less than what I expect with the smaller Glock. The 27 was purchased with the standard spring more than 10 years ago, but it was swapped it with an 8 pounder. I don't have to keep the 8 if I don't like it. The problem is that I don't remember how the 5 felt/shot because they swapped it out with the 8 before I had a chance to use it regularly.
You guys know Glocks fer shore
Thanks.
You guys know Glocks fer shore
Thanks.Pull out the connector and check for markings. None = 5.5#, - = 3# - and + = 8#. Also look for the spring. If it is a normal looking spring you're all set. If it is a little silver or black spring in an orange or od plastic piece you have the NY1 or NY2. ALL FACTORY GLOCKS ARE SETUP WITH THE UNMARKED CONNECTOR AND NORMAL SPRING. Exceptions are the 34/35 & 17L for tactical & IDPA use (3# connector) and older guns supplied to the NYPD or for sales in MA/California (5.5# and orange NYPD spring).
I'm gonna buy a 5 and check it out. I'm familiar with Glocks, but not at this level. Excellent info. Thanks
Every competition shooter i've ever met does not shoot a stock gun. All have some sort of trigger jobs that fall under the regulations of whatever type of competition they are in. Your point is like saying a stock Chevy Malibu can win a NASCAR race if the driver has the skill and mastery of fundamentals to win.
Also i'm trying to help the OP with his original question based on my experience and training as a Glock armorer. Not sure what your background is but all you've told him to do is work on his fundamentals and to get a new handgun while i'm trying to assist him in putting his Glock 27 back to the way it left the factory before someone messed with it. It's not an entirely different conversation it's the conversation the OP wanted to have before we went way off topic.
I would check and see what's in the gun first as there are a variety of ways to increase the feel and pull weight. Since it didn't come from Glock that way there is no way of knowing what's in there without looking. Some combo's i've seen:
5.5# connector + spring = Standard Glock trigger pull and reset.
3# connector + spring = lighter pull
3# connector + NY1 spring (olive) = light DA revolver like pull. Reset a bit mushy.
5.5# connector + NY2 spring (orange) = very heavy DA revolver like pull. Horrible reset. Factory trigger for MA/CA compliant guns for a few years.
8# connector + spring = very heavy pull but keeps the Glock trigger feel and reset.
8# connector + NY1 = very heavy DA revolver feel and mushy reset.
8# connector + NY2 = broken gun. Trigger won't reset after first pull. Do not try.
No it's the sub-compact .40. The 23 is the compact .40.
Also this might help with the trigger spring options:
http://www.glock.com/english/options_triggerspring.htm
http://www.glock.com/english/options_triggerspring.htm