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ETC Question

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Guys who have an ETC in their wineador, do you know how often your unit turns on? Or how long your wineador holds it's temp after cooling? I am just curious how long these things hold their temps. Thanks guys, hope everyone is having a great weekend.
 
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I can't help ya out, but I wanted to add my findings to this post. I wired an ETC to my newair and I tried everything I knew possible, and I ended up taking it back off. Every time it would shut the fridge off and then it came back on, mine would reset to the lowest temp. Just could not get it to work any other way. I hope you get some good advice and you can get your to work for you.
 
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I can't help ya out, but I wanted to add my findings to this post. I wired an ETC to my newair and I tried everything I knew possible, and I ended up taking it back off. Every time it would shut the fridge off and then it came back on, mine would reset to the lowest temp. Just could not get it to work any other way. I hope you get some good advice and you can get your to work for you.
I'm about to go the ETC route as well. I've never heard of that kinda problem. Does that mean that your controller wasn't working properly? I just ask bc I don't want to waste my time if it's going to constantly reset back to the lowest temp.

Edit: also what model newair are you using? Not that it matter bc they should all be the same. Just wondering.
 

StogieNinja

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The thing about winecooler a to remember is that the air it's putting out is cold air, but at one temp. The temp is controlled by how long the cooling unit runs, not by the temperature of the cold air being produced. So, whether you have the thing set to 55* or 65*, the cold air coming from the cooling unit is the same temp, it will just run longer to accomplish the lower temp.

So, the ETC works by turning the whole unit on and off based on the settings you input, and it has it's own temp sensor you'll wire when setting it up. When the etc turns the cooler on, the cooler will be set to the lowest setting... but the ETC will cut power when the temp it measures matches what you've input on the ETC. Even though the wine cooler may be set to 55*, if you have your etc set to 65*, it will cut power when the temp reaches 65*, the wine cooler doesn't have a chance to run until it hits the lowest temp setting.

Make sense?
 
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The thing about winecooler a to remember is that the air it's putting out is cold air, but at one temp. The temp is controlled by how long the cooling unit runs, not by the temperature of the cold air being produced. So, whether you have the thing set to 55* or 65*, the cold air coming from the cooling unit is the same temp, it will just run longer to accomplish the lower temp.

So, the ETC works by turning the whole unit on and off based on the settings you input, and it has it's own temp sensor you'll wire when setting it up. When the etc turns the cooler on, the cooler will be set to the lowest setting... but the ETC will cut power when the temp it measures matches what you've input on the ETC. Even though the wine cooler may be set to 55*, if you have your etc set to 65*, it will cut power when the temp reaches 65*, the wine cooler doesn't have a chance to run until it hits the lowest temp setting.

Make sense?
Makes perfect sense now that you put it that way. I've actually been reading your thread about the STC1000 you hooked up. Very nice set up man!
 

StogieNinja

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It depends on the temp outside of the box, there is no "it is on ever ____ minutes", I mean just think about it.
The one caveat is that you can program the etc not to turn on any more frequently than you want. For example you could set a 5 min delay which would prevent it from turning on until five minutes past when it last shut off. Helps lengthen the life of the control board.
 

mdwest

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Ok.. I need the help of an electrician (or even someone that tinkers would probably be just fine..)...

Im about to commit to a DIY thermoelectric project for my cabinet..

I think I have the peltier/thermoelectric cooling unit completely figured out...

what I need help with is the ETC part.... how to actually connect it all together.. and also how to get the right amount of "juice" to the components..

all peltier systems I am finding run on 12 volt.... almost all ETC's I am finding that are worth having run on 110 volt... my plan was/is to run on 110 volt and just use a power source that will convert 110 coming out of the wall to the 12 I need for the peltier... but.. if I need the 110 for the ETC.. how do I rig all of that up.. without either underpowering the ETC... or blowing up the peltier?... if you cant tell.. I am electricity StUpId...).....
 

mdwest

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this heat sink comes with a 92mm fan attached...

plan is to build a thermoelectric unit with two of the above.. and a 40mm, 110 watt peltier device... which is a little bit more powerful than the portable refrigerated coolers use... which I THINK will be more than powerful enough to cool down my cabinet.. my house never gets above 75.. and typically stays about 72 in the summer... in the winter we keep it about 68.. so it doesnt have push a whole lot of cold...

what Im trying to figure out is how to wire all of the above to an ETC.. and make it all work...
 
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I can't help ya out, but I wanted to add my findings to this post. I wired an ETC to my newair and I tried everything I knew possible, and I ended up taking it back off. Every time it would shut the fridge off and then it came back on, mine would reset to the lowest temp. Just could not get it to work any other way. I hope you get some good advice and you can get your to work for you.
I'm about to go the ETC route as well. I've never heard of that kinda problem. Does that mean that your controller wasn't working properly? I just ask bc I don't want to waste my time if it's going to constantly reset back to the lowest temp.

Edit: also what model newair are you using? Not that it matter bc they should all be the same. Just wondering.
Controller was working right, but every time it reached the temp to shut the unit down it turned it off completely, then when it came back on the new air 281e would go to the lowest setting and I had to reset it every time the controller hit temp.
 

cgraunke

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Griz, that's how the NewAir will always work with an external ETC. But it's working correctly. I'll write more later...

DaVe, you'll need your 12VDC power supply, as well as the main incoming 110VAC for the ETC. The part you're missing is just a simple relay, 110VAC coil fired by the ETC w/ the 12VDC for your Peltier running through a normally open (NO) contact. If you have cut sheets available for the equipment you plan to purchase I can put together a wiring schematic for you and let you know what else you need.
 
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I can help. You need a relay. Don't think cluttering this thread up with part numbers and diagrams will help. Pm me if you wish I would be happy to walk you through it.
 
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The thing about winecooler a to remember is that the air it's putting out is cold air, but at one temp. The temp is controlled by how long the cooling unit runs, not by the temperature of the cold air being produced. So, whether you have the thing set to 55* or 65*, the cold air coming from the cooling unit is the same temp, it will just run longer to accomplish the lower temp.

So, the ETC works by turning the whole unit on and off based on the settings you input, and it has it's own temp sensor you'll wire when setting it up. When the etc turns the cooler on, the cooler will be set to the lowest setting... but the ETC will cut power when the temp it measures matches what you've input on the ETC. Even though the wine cooler may be set to 55*, if you have your etc set to 65*, it will cut power when the temp reaches 65*, the wine cooler doesn't have a chance to run until it hits the lowest temp setting.

Make sense?
Makes total sense, but mine wouldn't do that, it just kept running nonstop after it came back on. It would run it till it was at the lowest setting and it just kept running. I took it out and left the fridge run as it was made at the factory.

Ps, I was just posting my experience, I didn't mean to high jack the original post and he needs his question answered before me....
 
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My question has been answered for sure. For now I have a light timer setup that is doing just fine for me. I was curious to upgrade to an ETC but I think I'll stick this out for a while. Just had to figure out how long/often to have the unit run to keep the temps in check. ETC's sound great and will probably be my next upgrade (or in my next wineador lol). My setup finally seems to have dialed in, temps are in check and humidity is where I want it. I was so baffled why the RH dropped so much when the unit turned on but it recovers in about 10 minutes and I'm ok with that. Do you guys think that these fluctuations would cause any long term problems with the cigars? So far I haven't noticed any negative effects of the fluctuations in my cigars though.
 

StogieNinja

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Makes total sense, but mine wouldn't do that, it just kept running nonstop after it came back on. It would run it till it was at the lowest setting and it just kept running. I took it out and left the fridge run as it was made at the factory.

Ps, I was just posting my experience, I didn't mean to high jack the original post and he needs his question answered before me....
Given that the OP's question was answered... 1. how did you wire the ETC's temp sensor, and 2. what settings did you have on it? (Temp range, time delay, etc)
 

StogieNinja

Derek | BoM June 2014
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I was so baffled why the RH dropped so much when the unit turned on but it recovers in about 10 minutes and I'm ok with that. Do you guys think that these fluctuations would cause any long term problems with the cigars? So far I haven't noticed any negative effects of the fluctuations in my cigars though.

No one I know has been able to answer that question (why the rh dips like that) but a lot if folks have that experience. Most seem to suffer no ill effects.

My personal theory is that the movement of air prevents the sensor from reading the rh properly, so it's not that the rh actually bounces back, it's that the sensor does. One possibility is that the difference in temp between the air and the sensor is what causes the reading.
 
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