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New Winedaor - humidity fluctuation help

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Hi all, I just recently bought a wine cooler (thermoelectric) to age my cigars. I've been a smoker for 6 years and have been maintaining my desktop humidor (quite a large box humidor, holds 400 sticks roughly) for a few years now using boveda and I maintain consistent 69% humidity all year round.

I just bought a 24 bottle thermoelectric wine cooler (hard to find thermoelectric in the UK!) and put 2lbs of Heartfelt Beads 70% in there. I put some cigar lids and cedar in the bottom with the beads to help add some wood in there and then put my cigar boxes in, around 10 boxes (the boxes have already been sitting in my other humidor at 69% humidity). I have a Caliber IV hygrometer to measure temperature and humidity. I'm setting my wine cooler at 18C (64F). The humidity is reading between 65-70%, which I'm happy with (I actually wanted to bring it down to 65% for slower aging).

So my problem is - every time the cooler fan kicks on to chill the wine cooler, the humidity drops to around 50-55% humidity, then as soon as the fan stops, the humidity rises back up (as it should do) to 65 again.

I've been reading the forums and understand that:

-when the wine cooler starts to run and cools the air inside, by laws of science, humidity will always drop as the air gets colder and drawn out of the wine cooler - even with thermoelectric coolers. If this is the case, why do so many people recommend thermoelectric over compressor? If both types of coolers causes humidity to drop, why is there a bias towards getting thermoelectric? Is it because a compressor will aggressively drive the humidity down even further and have more issues with condensation inside the cooler? Everyone seems to say "buy a thermoelectric because compressor will remove humidity" but it happens in both, except no one talks about it happening in a thermoelectric.
-a lot of people say that their wineadors sit at "rock solid" humidity all year round - how is this possible when the wine cooler fan kicks in to chill the air? Unless they have so much boxes and cigars in there to buffer the difference and hardly notice any real significant drop in humidity?
-Should I be worried at all? All my cigars in my new wineador are in boxes - I wanted a wineador to age boxes and will only put boxes in there (not single sticks) - from what I understand, the boxes will help humidify the cigars and protect them from humidity changes through the day and the cigars themselves won't really see any real difference/issues, right? I do like having a stable environment (consistent 65-70% without the multiple drops in humidity during the day) but am I worried over nothing? Do the RH swings (which is happening multiple times a day due to the fan kicking in to maintain the 18c temp) affect my cigars if they are protected in the boxes?

What do most people do to counter this? I know some people leave their wineador turned off (unplugged) and I did try that and it sits at a stable 70% but I wanted the wineador to control temperature, around 18C for the main compartment. My wineador has a separate compartment in the top and I was thinking of bringing that temperature down to 12C for real low and slow aging (with 62% humidity) but I know the colder the air, the less humidity it can hold. I was thinking of getting an electricity timer to plug into the wall socket to control when to give power to the wine cooler (only problem with this is that the temp settings resets to 12c when the cooler is switched off) but I could at least lessen the amount of RH swings in a day. Maybe I could also try spreading my HF beads all around and really loading more boxes in to stabilise more.

Do I just have to accept that the RH swings will keep happening as long as I have the wineador switched on? Do I need more buffer e.g. more cigar boxes/more beads spread throughout? I was thinking of adding boveda packs in there too. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

bostoneo

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Welcome to the forums bro! You may want to stop by the introductions side and do an introduction thread
http://www.botl.org/forums/introductions.23/

ric? Is it because a compressor will aggressively drive the humidity down even further and have more issues with condensation inside the cooler?
Yes

Should I be worried at all? All my cigars in my new wineador are in boxes
What temp are you keeping it at? I keep mine at 65 F, and my house is kept at around 72 in the spring/summer/fall. Do not put your cooler near a vent when using heat in the house as well. Keeping boxes/wood in the wineador will provide a buffer for humidity as well as the wood will retain moisture as well.

I have also found that when I keep crystal jars/kitty litter at the bottom of the unit, I seems to vary 69% at bottom, 67% middle, 65% at top third, so I'll store boxes at bottom, singles at top.
 
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Welcome to the forums bro! You may want to stop by the introductions side and do an introduction thread
http://www.botl.org/forums/introductions.23/


Yes


What temp are you keeping it at? I keep mine at 65 F, and my house is kept at around 72 in the spring/summer/fall. Do not put your cooler near a vent when using heat in the house as well. Keeping boxes/wood in the wineador will provide a buffer for humidity as well as the wood will retain moisture as well.

I have also found that when I keep crystal jars/kitty litter at the bottom of the unit, I seems to vary 69% at bottom, 67% middle, 65% at top third, so I'll store boxes at bottom, singles at top.
I just posted an introduction, thanks for that!

As I mentioned in my original post, I'm setting my wine cooler at 18C (64F) - my ambient in the room is around 20C right now, so the fans kick in to cool it down to 18C. Don't your humidity levels drop when your fan kicks in? I'm wondering how everyone tackles this when their wine cooler turns on and starts to cool the air thus causing the humidity levels to drop. Do you just let your beads deal with it and let it bounce back up? e.g. live with the fact that your humidity levels go down and up throughout the day when your fan is working.
 

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I keep all my jars at the bottom of the unit, but probably should put one in the corner of each of the shelves (I use 3 racks, spanning 2 slots each). I also put boveda in each box I use to store singles / open boxes. When the air kicks in it does drop humidity, so this is why I keep singles at the top where it hovers around 65% normally. The amount of 69% bovedas I have in the unit is probably 20ish. It typically quickly recovers when its done cooling, but that hasn't been a problem with the cool weather as I keep my house at 65 F.
 
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I keep all my jars at the bottom of the unit, but probably should put one in the corner of each of the shelves (I use 3 racks, spanning 2 slots each). I also put boveda in each box I use to store singles / open boxes. When the air kicks in it does drop humidity, so this is why I keep singles at the top where it hovers around 65% normally. The amount of 69% bovedas I have in the unit is probably 20ish. It typically quickly recovers when its done cooling, but that hasn't been a problem with the cool weather as I keep my house at 65 F.
It sounds like everyone has this issue then - when the air kicks in, humidity drops and it's all about maintaining a fast recovery rate back to the desired RH.

So everyone just lives with the whole RH swinging up and down? Can anyone else chime in with their experiences?
 
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I can only speak for my unit. When the wino turns on I don't see a drop. If the unit has to run all day , in the summer because the ambient temp has gone up, it will stress the media faster but I don't the see dramatic swings. If I had to guess. I'd say you have a poor seal on the door or the drain hole is larger than most. What uir describing is what happens when I leave my door open for 5 minutes while selecting a stick.
 
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I can only speak for my unit. When the wino turns on I don't see a drop. If the unit has to run all day , in the summer because the ambient temp has gone up, it will stress the media faster but I don't the see dramatic swings. If I had to guess. I'd say you have a poor seal on the door or the drain hole is larger than most. What uir describing is what happens when I leave my door open for 5 minutes while selecting a stick.
The seal seems good and the humidity only drops when I have the cooler switched on and the fan kicks in - if I turn the cooler off, the humidity is rock solid at my desired RH.
One thing I haven't messed with is the drain hole - what's the primary reason people plug this hole? Is this where the air gets pulled out when the fan kicks in? Should I seal it with tape so stop humidity dropping when the fan kicks in?
 
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There is no drain hole on the thermoelectric ones
Eh? Why does everyone talk about plugging the drain hole among the forums then? People who have New Air thermoelectric wine coolers talking about plugging drain holes...
 
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Yes, just put a piece of black electrical tape over it if you have a drain hole. Most I believe do have a drain holes either on the back wall half way up or at the bottom of the back wall.

How long is your cooler staying on to cool everything down? The cold air will change the humidity but it shouldn't be cooling for a long time, maybe a minute at the most. I run a compressor type mini fridge with fans that come on every hour for about 3 minutes and have a sensor to turn on the compressor when it gets too hot, it only runs for about a minute and cools everything and then turns out. The hydrometers will show a different rh level only because the cold air is moving around and it affect the sensor but once the cooler shuts off the rh goes back to 65%, that's probably what your are seeing.
 
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Yes, just put a piece of black electrical tape over it if you have a drain hole. Most I believe do have a drain holes either on the back wall half way up or at the bottom of the back wall.

How long is your cooler staying on to cool everything down? The cold air will change the humidity but it shouldn't be cooling for a long time, maybe a minute at the most. I run a compressor type mini fridge with fans that come on every hour for about 3 minutes and have a sensor to turn on the compressor when it gets too hot, it only runs for about a minute and cools everything and then turns out. The hydrometers will show a different rh level only because the cold air is moving around and it affect the sensor but once the cooler shuts off the rh goes back to 65%, that's probably what your are seeing.
I just checked the drain hole and it had a tiny bit of water dripping - I'm guessing this is the moisture from the humidity in the air from my beads and boveda packs being drawn out when the fan kicks in. I wiped it and then sealed it with black electrical tape - here's hoping that the RH stays more stable when the fan kicks in. What do you do about your condensation (if anything) ?

I have the cooler set to 17/18C and my ambient temp in the room is around 20/21C, so the cooler was not staying on for that long each time but I was worried about the amount of times in a day it would turn on - but it seems like everyone just lives with the RH swings from their coolers turning on and off and just accepts that once it is off, the RH bounces back. Like you said, if the hygrometers are reading the RH swing only because the cold air is moving around, then I shouldn't really be worried about it as I know my beads and boveda are working properly (like I said, if I turn the cooler off, the humidity stays at a rock solid 70% RH).

The only thing I'm noticing now is that I have now loaded the wineador up with about 13 boxes and they are stacked high in front of the fan at the back - the fan seems to stay on for longer as if the air is being blocked a tiny bit so the wine cooler thinks it isn't cooling (even though the temp on the cooler says it is around 17/18C) but my Caliver IV reader tells me it is going even further colder to 15/16C as the fan stays on longer. I noticed this when I started putting more boxes in so I tried making sure the boxes aren't right up against the fan.

The only thing I can think of is to use an electric timer on the power socket to control when to give power to the wineador - this way I can set it to only turn on every couple of hours or whenever I need it to rather than the multiple times per hour it is turning on now.

Here's hoping that plugging/sealing the drain hole will help and stop the humidity from dropping/swinging when the cooler fan turns on. Any more advice would be appreciated, thanks!
 
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So I plugged my drain hole by taping it with black electrical tape - this seems to have somewhat made things a tiny bit more stable but my RH still drops down to 53-55% humidity when the fan turns on but bounces back to 65-69% when the fan turns off. The drain hole being plugged seems to have slowed the RH swings down but it still happens.

Anyone else have any advice for stabilising RH when the fan turns on or should I just live with this?
 
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It's not an outlet it's a little plastic 1/4 Inch catch. The 3/4 inch hole is in the center back if every thermoelectric unit. By design they have to be in their
 

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It's not an outlet it's a little plastic 1/4 Inch catch. The 3/4 inch hole is in the center back if every thermoelectric unit. By design they have to be in their
Huh, thought that was with a compressor only. I'll have to look again at my AW-281E, never ever recall seeing that
 
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So I plugged my drain hole by taping it with black electrical tape - this seems to have somewhat made things a tiny bit more stable but my RH still drops down to 53-55% humidity when the fan turns on but bounces back to 65-69% when the fan turns off. The drain hole being plugged seems to have slowed the RH swings down but it still happens.

Anyone else have any advice for stabilising RH when the fan turns on or should I just live with this?
I'd check the seal arounf the door. Also check if the fan itself is pulling air in from the outside while on
 
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