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NewAir Wineador 'always running'?

GreekElite

GreekElite

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So I've had my NewAir 18 btl wineador for a couple years now, and have now noticed as the temperature is dropping, and despite my having temp at highest setting (66*), that the cooling is seemingly always on. I've found decent puddles of water at the bottom of the cooler, though my RH does not seem affected (always reading 64-66.. i think it lower than actually is due to the lower temp/circulating air).

So i unplugged the entire unit and just have the bottom laptop fan running intermittently to cycle the air. Temp holds at 68 and rh at 70. But has anyone else had this from their wineador, where it never turns off and they get that pool of water?

PS i tried fiddling with the circuit board in the back and ended up unplugging a 'fan' for a few minutes.. thankfully I noticed right away that the temp inside had skyrocketed (the actual dgital temp on the board was reading 95*, and so wer the hygros inside), so that wire was for the cooling little fans, but whatever other electronic was still generating heat.

Maybe there is another wire I would disconnect, or the wine cooler's temp sensor that activates the fans/cooling even tho the digital temp is reading 66 and actual internal temp is at 66 or just below? Any info appreciated!
 
GreekElite

GreekElite

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StogieNinja said:
Get an ETC, it will solve the issues.
Click to expand...
presuming you mean an electronic temp controller? I wouldn't even know where to start on those haha
but did find this: https://www.homebrewsupply.com/inkbird-digital-temperature-controller-thermostat-110v.html?gclid=CMfX-JKK588CFQ-raQod-yMD3w
seems pretty simple where I just plug in the cooler to this and set a temp, presume cooler would only kick on when the sensor reads above the desired temp?

thanks for the suggestion!
 
StogieNinja

StogieNinja

Derek | BoM June 2014
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Sorry... yeah, and Electronic Temp Controller. Many are out there, and I have zero input on which are good or bad, but the idea is solid. It has an independent temp probe, and you can set a range of temp (say, 65-69*), as well as input time delays so it will only turn on every 3 minutes for example, etc so the system isnt clicking on and off constantly. I had one wired up that worked well, but for where I am (PacNW) I dont really need temp control so I don't use it.
 
marshall9779

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I have a CC-100. mine always runs too, at least the interior circulation fan does. If I drop the temp setting below the actual temp you can hear a change in sound when the thermo unit and heat sink fan comes on. I was having issues with the RH dropping with the unit plugged in even though I had the temp setting maxed and well above the actual temp. I was basically just trying to utilize the circ fan since it runs all the time. I ended up taking the back panel off and unplugging the wires going to the cooling unit but left the fan plugged in. I can post pics of mine on which wires I unplugged. Everything else worked when plugged back in so I'm pretty sure I got the right harness for just the thermo unit. RH was still wanting to drop up top still. I think I need to put some silicone around the heat sink and where the wires go into the thermo unit. it just has some foam to seal it so I think its drawing some air in through there.
 
marshall9779

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Here's a pic of the wires I disconnected to the thermo unit. It's the bundle of wires that run inside behind the heat sink. It's a pair of black wires that go to the white plug second up from the bottom left corner. There is also a single red and single black that go to the spade connections up top. All other functions still work; interior circ fan, temp readout and light. I also ended up unplugging the exterior heat sink cooling fan. It's the paired red and black going to the white plug second from the top left.
RH hasn't dropped after plugging the unit back in with the thermo unit disconnected. This confirms that some voltage is getting to the thermo unit regardless of the temp is below the set point.



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