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Cigar Molds Thread

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60 ring is almost an inch. 5mm padding is about 1/4". You are already past 1" at that point. 1" wood is actually less than 1". You also need some padding when you square off the faces.

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So you're only making 60-ring and up?
 
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A 2x10 is actually 1 1/2 x 9 1/4. A 1x10 is 3/4 x 9 1/4.

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Where I get my hardwood the 1x10 is 13/16 thick, which is the same as all the pro wood molds I have. The depth of the bottom trough on a 50-rg is 23/32, leaving a hefty 3/32 clearance.
 
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No. A 44 ring is .6875". You wouldn't have enough padding in the bottom with a 1" (.75") piece. Unless you only wanted 38 ring and below?

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Well, I don't know how you're structuring these things, but it's not the same as a pro wood mold. The bottom trough of a 44 leaves an 1/8" padding on the bottom half.
 
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Where I get my hardwood the 1x10 is 13/16 thick, which is the same as all the pro wood molds I have. The depth of the bottom trough on a 50-rg is 23/32, leaving a hefty 3/32 clearance.
They must design theirs differently then. My molds have the complete height of the stick within the bottom half and the top half closes in, with 5mm of padding on the bottom. 23/32 is 46/64, which must have 4/64 of a 50 ring above the top of the bottom mold. It also wouldn't accommodate custom sizes, like the Salomon that has bigger than a 50 ring at the foot.

But I'm also not a professional mold designer, and this design has given me zero problems rolling. This may also contribute to new molds costing more than $100. In order to try to get each mold to fit into custom wood sizes dependent on the ring size is more time than I have. My design is within the realm of affordability for a home roller, and is very easily customizable, in my opinion. Plus it's within the realm of me picking up wood with the little extra time I have, without much cost for materials, it will work every time I carve it, with little extra cost when a carve doesn't turn out or a bit breaks. As it is, a carve is going to take a day's worth of cutting time, I'm betting, with at least 2 tool changes, minus cutting the stock, and any sanding.

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This is my 44. That's 1/8 clearance at the bottom of a 13/16" piece. The clearance on my 50 is 1/16".
Then something is off because in that picture the top of the cylinder is at the top of the bottom half, which is exactly how I designed mine. I just don't use a piece of plywood on the bottom of mine, mine is one whole piece. I use 5mm on the bottom of mine, which is bigger than 13/16.

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They must design theirs differently then. My molds have the complete height of the stick within the bottom half and the top half closes in, with 5mm of padding on the bottom. 23/32 is 46/64, which must have 4/64 of a 50 ring above the top of the bottom mold. It also wouldn't accommodate custom sizes, like the Salomon that has bigger than a 50 ring at the foot.

But I'm also not a professional mold designer, and this design has given me zero problems rolling. This may also contribute to new molds costing more than $100. In order to try to get each mold to fit into custom wood sizes dependent on the ring size is more time than I have. My design is within the realm of affordability for a home roller, and is very easily customizable, in my opinion. Plus it's within the realm of me picking up wood with the little extra time I have, without much cost for materials, it will work every time I carve it, with little extra cost when a carve doesn't turn out or a bit breaks. As it is, a carve is going to take a day's worth of cutting time, I'm betting, with at least 2 tool changes, minus cutting the stock, and any sanding.

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Gotcha. But there aren't custom wood sizes dependent on ring size. It's all the same piece of 13/16 mahogany up to 52rg. That piece is $8 for something that'll hold ten 8" slots. I'm not challenging you on how you do your thing. I'm just presenting the data.
 
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Gotcha. But there aren't custom wood sizes dependent on ring size. It's all the same piece of 13/16 wood up to 52rg. That piece is $8 for something that'll hold ten 8" slots. I'm not challenging you on how you do your thing. I'm just presenting the data.
There is custom. You can't say 52 r can be done with 13/16 because 52/64=.8125 and 13/16=.8125. The math doesn't work. You'd either have no room for the bottom padding, or you'd have to redesign the mold to fit that stock somehow, which would be different than pro molds where the top of the stick is flush with the top of the bottom half. The 44 ring, cutting down on the padding, barely fits in 13/16 that way. You would have to go up a stock side or two for above 44r, which makes it custom.

I don't have plans to glue some plywood to my molds. It's ugly in my opinion and less structurally sound. I want them as one piece of stock. These will work well for me, and look really nice. If someone wants to pay me to dig up the right size of hardwood for a custom designed mold to fit that piece, then I will, but in my opinion it is a waste of money unless you display them instead of use them. And still, this fir looks pretty nice, so I think they will display nice too. I probably looked like a goon climbing in the piles of wood to find the best looking reddish boards.

And if this doesn't work, then I can always try something else. I could just as easily cut plastics too. Or aluminum. Lol.

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The CNC is working through the bottom half of the 44 ring 10 stick mold. This is much more labor intensive than 3d printing. Printing I just press a button and come back in 12 hours. This requires tool changes, measurements, constant checking up, vacuuming, laying out the tool paths with a cam, etc. The cad program estimates one side of a mold takes 12 hours of cutting time. So we are looking at 24 hours for a complete mold, minus any hand cleanup and tool changes. That's some significant amount of time.

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The CNC is working through the bottom half of the 44 ring 10 stick mold. This is much more labor intensive than 3d printing. Printing I just press a button and come back in 12 hours. This requires tool changes, measurements, constant checking up, vacuuming, laying out the tool paths with a cam, etc. The cad program estimates one side of a mold takes 12 hours of cutting time. So we are looking at 24 hours for a complete mold, minus any hand cleanup and tool changes. That's some significant amount of time.

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Can you start a new thread with the CNC stuff? It will keep it all together and easily accessed when I start mine.
 
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Can you start a new thread with the CNC stuff? It will keep it all together and easily accessed when I start mine.
Sure, if I have CNC specific stuff at a later point, but I'm pretty much talking about the actual molds here.

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The CNC is working through the bottom half of the 44 ring 10 stick mold. This is much more labor intensive than 3d printing. Printing I just press a button and come back in 12 hours. This requires tool changes, measurements, constant checking up, vacuuming, laying out the tool paths with a cam, etc. The cad program estimates one side of a mold takes 12 hours of cutting time. So we are looking at 24 hours for a complete mold, minus any hand cleanup and tool changes. That's some significant amount of time.

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It's chugging. I honestly did not expect it to get this far...


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Here's a set of pro molds I have. The bottom is made out of 2" stock and the top is closer to a full inch.


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