Whynter CHC-251S HELP

[UPTOWNSMOKE]

Hey guys hoping I can get some advice on what to do. I have a Whynter 251S I've had since December 2016. It was about 3/4 full with about 3 Lbs of KL and 3 Accurite Hygros and 1 Xikar Hygro, drain hole plugged.. Wineador was working perfectly, 65-66 F and 64-65% RH. I unplugged it for the winter months and it maintained the 65-66 F and 64-65% RH. About 6 weeks ago I plugged in the Wineador, the temperature is holding at 65-66 F but the RH is not rising above 58% and a lot of water is collecting at the bottom. If I unplug the Wineador within 30 minutes the humidity gets to 64-65% but the temperature jumps to 75-76 F.

I've moved all my cigars to ziplock bags and replaced the KL with new KL and yes I've sprayed the KL with Distilled Water. I've reseasoned the shelves and drawers again. For the hundredth time I tested my Hygros and they are working fine. Plugged in for 3 days and same results, 65-66 F and 58%RH with water collecting at the bottom. Unplugged 75-76 F and 64-65 RH. Tested the seal around the door and no leaks, so I don't know what is happening.

Any idea what's happening here guys?

Thanks.

 

[Boudie]

Obviously the humidity is condensing on the cold plate so make sure you have plenty of air moving over it, nothing blocking the fan. I have the same problem during the summer when the cooler runs full time, I just recycle the condensed moisture in the bottom of the unit with a clean rag, sop it up and lay the rag out in an open area of the unit to dry and replenish the humidity. In my case seems to be the nature of the beast when it gets hot.

 

[UPTOWNSMOKE]

Contacted Whynter CS and after a few emails was told that most likely the control board and heat sink will have to be replaced. Cost for the parts would be around $50. They suggest I get a certified technician to install the parts. Don't know what that will cost me. I bought extended warranty when I purchase the unit so I contacted them and I'm waiting on them to see if they will cover the cost or if I have to shell out the $50 and try to install the parts myself. Guess I have to invest in a soldering iron and solder.

One more thing Whynter sent a link where I can purchase the parts but the Heat Sink is unavailable and don't know when it will be.

Anyone ever replace the control board and heat sink and if so was it very technical. I can frame a wall and put up sheetrock and but I don't mess with electrical.


This all sucks because I only purchased this unit December 2016.

 

[WatchmanUSA]

I have never done anything with these units but I have done other control boards. Given that it is a 2016 model, I would be surprised if it had anything other than a plug-in wire assembly and a few screws to hold it in-place. The hardest part is usually getting the cover off to access control boards. You ususally need to know where the tabs and or screws are that fasten it down. The board is ussually the easy part. It could be easy to remove on the unit but I don't know for sure.

 

[UPTOWNSMOKE]

I have never done anything with these units but I have done other control boards. Given that it is a 2016 model, I would be surprised if it had anything other than a plug-in wire assembly and a few screws to hold it in-place. The hardest part is usually getting the cover off to access control boards. You ususally need to know where the tabs and or screws are that fasten it down. The board is ussually the easy part. It could be easy to remove on the unit but I don't know for sure.

I removed the back panel and see that it will not be that hard to remove the control board and the heat sink, it's the soldering part that I'm kinda worried about. I have used a soldering iron before just don't want to mess this up.

 

[Boudie]

All my connections where plugs for the circuit board. Use masking tape to label the wires as you remove them from the old board.

 

[UPTOWNSMOKE]

All my connections where plugs for the circuit board. Use masking tape to label the wires as you remove them from the old board.

Thanks for the tip

 

[WatchmanUSA]

I removed the back panel and see that it will not be that hard to remove the control board and the heat sink, it's the soldering part that I'm kinda worried about. I have used a soldering iron before just don't want to mess this up.

Before you cut anything, make sure you don’t have a connector(s) of some type. Soldering in wires in assembly is rarely done today. It’s slow there is a great risk of mistakes. It’s faster and provides better build quality to have these pre-assembled as plug-ins.

 

[UPTOWNSMOKE]

Well I went ahead and ordered the control board. After I did this I decided to go back on Amazon and read the reviews of the Whynter again. I look at my purchase history and and totally forgot that I had bought a 3 year warranty with the unit. I contacted Assurant and was told that they would send my a return label and all I have to do is cut off the power cord and mail it back to them and when it is received they will email me an electronic gift card for the purchase price of the unit. Guess I will be returning the power cord and investing the money on The New Air AW-281E. I will use the shelves that are in the Whynter because Assurant does not want them or the old unit.

 

[Boudie]

Good move on buying the extended warranty! Glad it's working out for you.