Any Other Woodworkers on BOTL?
- Thread starter bwhite220
- Start date
Finally getting back to my book shelves. I'm working on the face frames and wanted to do something fancy with the top rail.
I made a template with 1/4" scrape plywood by tracing out 1/2 oval. Then cut out the oval with a jig saw. I used a straight cutting bit and a collar in the router to cut out the pattern 6 times. There are three bookshelves, each split in half.
More to come...
I made a template with 1/4" scrape plywood by tracing out 1/2 oval. Then cut out the oval with a jig saw. I used a straight cutting bit and a collar in the router to cut out the pattern 6 times. There are three bookshelves, each split in half.
More to come...
PetersCreek
Brother Borealis
I like that profile. Any plans to put LED strip lighting behind them?
My plan was to put puck lights on top of the bookshelves, pointing up at the ceiling. There is about a foot between the tops and the ceiling. That should make some nice indirect light. I hadn't thought about lighting the inside as well.
I added some profile to the stiles and edge to the top rail. I still need to do something with the mid rails. I'm heading to Duluth this weekend for a wedding, so no progress will be made then. I need to get on this project. Cold weather will be here before we know it.
PetersCreek
Brother Borealis
My current project isn't exactly fine woodworking. Our summer heat wave convinced us to put a ceiling fan in the master bedroom but the wrinkle is, our ceiling is pitched. The fan can be mounted on an angled ceiling but we'd rather keep it centered on the room. This calls from some kind of adapter. I don't want to get into the drywall because: blown insulation. So I intend to scab a box onto the finished ceiling. Construction is a combination of poplar and Baltic birch plywood, intentionally over-over-engineered to be bomb proof. Here's a test fit of the panel inset and junction box, with some flushing up of corners and edges, yet to do:
And a view of the inside:
Next comes a touch more sanding, a hole for wiring access, and some primer and paint. Then it gets lagged to a rafter. Wiring will go through surface mounted raceway from an old lighting junction a few feet away...again, to stay out of the drywall.
And a view of the inside:
Next comes a touch more sanding, a hole for wiring access, and some primer and paint. Then it gets lagged to a rafter. Wiring will go through surface mounted raceway from an old lighting junction a few feet away...again, to stay out of the drywall.
PetersCreek
Brother Borealis
Saturday, I brushed a few coats of B-I-N primer on the box, then laid on a coat of latex paint. The first can of paint I put my hands on was a light cream we used on the trim, so I used that.
Today, I drilled and counterbored holes for the lag screws and put the box in its in place. Two 6” and two 4” lags. I could hang a sex swing from it, I think. Then I installed the raceway and ran the wire.
Before I install the fan, I’m going to repaint the box in white. Instead of tying in with the rest of the trim, that cream color just looks dingy up there.
Today, I drilled and counterbored holes for the lag screws and put the box in its in place. Two 6” and two 4” lags. I could hang a sex swing from it, I think. Then I installed the raceway and ran the wire.
Before I install the fan, I’m going to repaint the box in white. Instead of tying in with the rest of the trim, that cream color just looks dingy up there.
PetersCreek
Brother Borealis
The box is white now...and it’s done:
Do you guys do anything to protect the surface of your table saws? Spots where my sweat dripped are rusting along the fence rail and the table surface is starting too.
Hit it with some 0000 steel wool and coating with a finishing paste to try to prevent further degradation but wondering what y'all do...
Hit it with some 0000 steel wool and coating with a finishing paste to try to prevent further degradation but wondering what y'all do...
PetersCreek
Brother Borealis
Fortunately, I don't often have to deal with high heat and excessive humidity, so good old Johnson's paste wax has worked well for me. On the WWing forums, however, Boeshield T-9 is a popular choice for spray-on protection, that's often topped with a coat of wax or Bostik GlideCote.
Tried my hand at some box joint work for a simple table in the garage. It's not pretty, but it works for the garage...
I need to work on finishing too. The board looked good before coating but not so good after. I'll be replacing that before long or I'll never hear the end of it. It is ride outside my wife's driver side door when she parks...
I need to work on finishing too. The board looked good before coating but not so good after. I'll be replacing that before long or I'll never hear the end of it. It is ride outside my wife's driver side door when she parks...
PetersCreek
Brother Borealis
That most certainly is woodworking. Nice.
I finished a quick little project today. I purposely didn’t build a whole lot of dividers into the magazine caddies up-thread, opting instead to make organizer modules later that suit my and The Wife’s needs. Looking in my wife’s caddy, I decide it was time to make her one. I hope she likes it. She doesn’t yet know that I’ve made it.
She’s been keeping pens and a pair of reading glasses in a disposable plastic cup, so I decided to fancify that a bit. I wanted to keep the design consistent with the caddy, which meant QSWO and box joints again. This gave me the opportunity to try out a new blade I picked during our recent trip to Washington: a Forrest Woodworker II, with a special #1 (ATB-R) grind. They even call it a box joint blade. Fantastic blade. Not only are grooves and dados clean with flat bottoms, sawn edges are practically glue ready without jointing.
I resawed a 5/4 piece of oak left over from the caddy build and planed the planks down to 3/8” (9.5mm) and further planed a piece of one to 1/4” (6.4mm) for a pair of dividers. After cutting the sides to size, I cut dados for the dividers with the same blade using multiple passes to sneak up on a good fit. I then box jointed them, glued them up, and trimmed the box to its final height.
I cut the bottom from 1/4” Baltic birch plywood and rather than square off the corners of the rabbet, I rounded the bottom to fit.
For a touch of luxury, I lined one compartment with PSA velour flocking for her readers.
Finish was three coats of spray shellac, followed by three coats of satin lacquer.
I finished a quick little project today. I purposely didn’t build a whole lot of dividers into the magazine caddies up-thread, opting instead to make organizer modules later that suit my and The Wife’s needs. Looking in my wife’s caddy, I decide it was time to make her one. I hope she likes it. She doesn’t yet know that I’ve made it.
She’s been keeping pens and a pair of reading glasses in a disposable plastic cup, so I decided to fancify that a bit. I wanted to keep the design consistent with the caddy, which meant QSWO and box joints again. This gave me the opportunity to try out a new blade I picked during our recent trip to Washington: a Forrest Woodworker II, with a special #1 (ATB-R) grind. They even call it a box joint blade. Fantastic blade. Not only are grooves and dados clean with flat bottoms, sawn edges are practically glue ready without jointing.
I resawed a 5/4 piece of oak left over from the caddy build and planed the planks down to 3/8” (9.5mm) and further planed a piece of one to 1/4” (6.4mm) for a pair of dividers. After cutting the sides to size, I cut dados for the dividers with the same blade using multiple passes to sneak up on a good fit. I then box jointed them, glued them up, and trimmed the box to its final height.
I cut the bottom from 1/4” Baltic birch plywood and rather than square off the corners of the rabbet, I rounded the bottom to fit.
For a touch of luxury, I lined one compartment with PSA velour flocking for her readers.
Finish was three coats of spray shellac, followed by three coats of satin lacquer.
Nice work!That most certainly is woodworking. Nice.
I finished a quick little project today. I purposely didn’t build a whole lot of dividers into the magazine caddies up-thread, opting instead to make organizer modules later that suit my and The Wife’s needs. Looking in my wife’s caddy, I decide it was time to make her one. I hope she likes it. She doesn’t yet know that I’ve made it.
She’s been keeping pens and a pair of reading glasses in a disposable plastic cup, so I decided to fancify that a bit. I wanted to keep the design consistent with the caddy, which meant QSWO and box joints again. This gave me the opportunity to try out a new blade I picked during our recent trip to Washington: a Forrest Woodworker II, with a special #1 (ATB-R) grind. They even call it a box joint blade. Fantastic blade. Not only are grooves and dados clean with flat bottoms, sawn edges are practically glue ready without jointing.
I resawed a 5/4 piece of oak left over from the caddy build and planed the planks down to 3/8” (9.5mm) and further planed a piece of one to 1/4” (6.4mm) for a pair of dividers. After cutting the sides to size, I cut dados for the dividers with the same blade using multiple passes to sneak up on a good fit. I then box jointed them, glued them up, and trimmed the box to its final height.
I cut the bottom from 1/4” Baltic birch plywood and rather than square off the corners of the rabbet, I rounded the bottom to fit.
For a touch of luxury, I lined one compartment with PSA velour flocking for her readers.
Finish was three coats of spray shellac, followed by three coats of satin lacquer.
Stupid Tapatalk
PetersCreek
Brother Borealis
My wife gave me an awesomely geeky Christmas present: the periodic table of elements in cast acrylic. To show it off properly, I decided that make a base for it.
I didn't want to cut into a large exotic board for this little project and I didn't have a scrap wide enough to do it all in one go but I did have a stick of Bolivian rosewood I could glue up in three sections. This allowed my to make the mortise by sizing the center section to the thickness of the casting and notching it to match its width, before glue-up. Trimmed to size, sanded to 400g, finished with BLO and a few coats of Minwax 'Special Dark' paste wax, applied with a fine Scotchbrite pad and buffed vigorously.
I didn't want to cut into a large exotic board for this little project and I didn't have a scrap wide enough to do it all in one go but I did have a stick of Bolivian rosewood I could glue up in three sections. This allowed my to make the mortise by sizing the center section to the thickness of the casting and notching it to match its width, before glue-up. Trimmed to size, sanded to 400g, finished with BLO and a few coats of Minwax 'Special Dark' paste wax, applied with a fine Scotchbrite pad and buffed vigorously.
This. Is. AWESOME!
My wife gave me an awesomely geeky Christmas present: the periodic table of elements in cast acrylic. To show it off properly, I decided that make a base for it.
I didn't want to cut into a large exotic board for this little project and I didn't have a scrap wide enough to do it all in one go but I did have a stick of Bolivian rosewood I could glue up in three sections. This allowed my to make the mortise by sizing the center section to the thickness of the casting and notching it to match its width, before glue-up. Trimmed to size, sanded to 400g, finished with BLO and a few coats of Minwax 'Special Dark' paste wax, applied with a fine Scotchbrite pad and buffed vigorously.