Quick home improvement question

[Clinton]

About a year ago, our house addition was completed. Among other things, it left us with unused basement space. My wife suggested that we should make it our home theater. Somehow I couldn't disagree.

eckkiss:

The AV equipment has been in place for quite awhile. We bought a high-def projector and I built an acoustically transparent 11' diagonal screen. It rocks, but the space has been unfinished all this time. I finally got off my ass and have framed in the walls and am now wiring for power.

Anyway here's my question. As the room above has a 6" stepdown, there's less than 7' of headroom in the new basement. I'd like to mount drywall for a ceiling directly to the underside of the 2x8 joists. The problem is the new water lines that are currently attached there. None of it is copper; they used PEX tubing. Can I safely and within code cut 1" notches or thru holes in the joists so none of these lines protrude below them?

Thanks.

 

[cvm4]

Don't start talking about code, I think the gubment already heard you! An inspector is on the way.

 

[jwintosh]

Don't start talking about code, I think the gubment already heard you! An inspector is on the way.

ha!!!

 

[Trumpetchris]

I don't know, but I'll be over to watch movies on your 11' screen and smoke cigars till we figure it out.

 

[cvm4]

I don't know, but I'll be over to watch movies on your 11' screen and smoke cigars till we figure it out.

:hysterica That's classic! :thumbsup:

 

[Wasch_24]

About a year ago, our house addition was completed. Among other things, it left us with unused basement space. My wife suggested that we should make it our home theater. Somehow I couldn't disagree.

eckkiss:

The AV equipment has been in place for quite awhile. We bought a high-def projector and I built an acoustically transparent 11' diagonal screen. It rocks, but the space has been unfinished all this time. I finally got off my ass and have framed in the walls and am now wiring for power.

Anyway here's my question. As the room above has a 6" stepdown, there's less than 7' of headroom in the new basement. I'd like to mount drywall for a ceiling directly to the underside of the 2x8 joists. The problem is the new water lines that are currently attached there. None of it is copper; they used PEX tubing. Can I safely and within code cut 1" notches or thru holes in the joists so none of these lines protrude below them?

Thanks.

I am not sure about local codes and what not but I can verify that the house we had built in 2003 had the wiring and plumbing running through 2" holes in the joists. They were the equivalent of 2x10s though.

 

[tuffy]

I am not sure about local codes and what not but I can verify that the house we had built in 2003 had the wiring and plumbing running through 2" holes in the joists. They were the equivalent of 2x10s though.

Probably engineered joists too!

 

[tedski]

Before notching out the floor joists (you'd have to call a licensed carpenter in your area to see if this could even be done within code), you might consider using 1" x 2" furring strips mounted perpendicular to the joists and installing an acoustical tile ceiling. This would allow much easier access to the plumbing lines in an emergency.

 

[tuffy]

Before notching out the floor joists (you'd have to call a licensed carpenter in your area to see if this could even be done within code), you might consider using 1" x 2" furring strips mounted perpendicular to the joists and installing an acoustical tile ceiling. This would allow much easier access to the plumbing lines in an emergency.

This is what I would recommend (the 1" x 2" furring strips). IIRC, it also helps reduce some noise between the two floors.

 

[tobby4]

The easy answer is no...

I will try and give you the hard answer tomorrow.. I am tired..

 

[jwintosh]

I don't know, but I'll be over to watch movies on your 11' screen and smoke cigars till we figure it out.

i was thinking the same thing! and, i'm only 5-8 on a good day, so the ceiling is no problemo :smokingme

 

[tuffy]

Here's what I know about your issue, but don't take this info to the bank. I can check my building code book when I get to work on Monday for exact IBC requirements, but for now, I am pulling this info from my brain (or ass, take your pick).

You can't "notch" the wood to install the line. You will need to drill a hole large enough to hold the pipe, no closer than 1 1/4" to either edge (top or bottom) of the joist. The part I can't remember for sure is the placement of the holes in the joist. I can't remember if the holes can only be drilled in the middle third of the joist or if it's on the end third of the joist (either end), but no closer than 16" to the end of the joist.

There are several other things to factor in like hole diameter, how many holes, etc... As tedski mentioned above, you should just fir it out. If the pex is your main supply, it's probably 3/4" in diameter, I would recommend getting 2 x 4's and ripping them in half so you have a bunch of 2 x 2's. Secure them perpendicular to your floor joists and install the sheetrock to the 2 x 2's. If you are making it a home theatre, it will also make running wires to speakers and components easier.

Clay, feel free to add to this, I am by no means an expert and am only going off my memory, which is sketchy at best. There is a reason why I have the book for work, so I don't have to memorize all this stuff!!! :hammersma

 

[Clinton]

Before notching out the floor joists (you'd have to call a licensed carpenter in your area to see if this could even be done within code), you might consider using 1" x 2" furring strips mounted perpendicular to the joists and installing an acoustical tile ceiling. This would allow much easier access to the plumbing lines in an emergency.

That's exactly what I'm trying to avoid. Right now I have only 6'10" headroom to the bottom of the joists. Furring and ceiling would drop another 1½" at least, but it doesn't take much to make a room feel claustrophobic, if you know what I mean. I'll go that route if I have to, but it's it's definitely my least preferred method.

Here's what I know about your issue, but don't take this info to the bank. I can check my building code book when I get to work on Monday for exact IBC requirements, but for now, I am pulling this info from my brain (or ass, take your pick).

You can't "notch" the wood to install the line. You will need to drill a hole large enough to hold the pipe, no closer than 1 1/4" to either edge (top or bottom) of the joist. The part I can't remember for sure is the placement of the holes in the joist. I can't remember if the holes can only be drilled in the middle third of the joist or if it's on the end third of the joist (either end), but no closer than 16" to the end of the joist.

There are several other things to factor in like hole diameter, how many holes, etc... As tedski mentioned above, you should just fir it out. If the pex is your main supply, it's probably 3/4" in diameter, I would recommend getting 2 x 4's and ripping them in half so you have a bunch of 2 x 2's. Secure them perpendicular to your floor joists and install the sheetrock to the 2 x 2's. If you are making it a home theatre, it will also make running wires to speakers and components easier.

Clay, feel free to add to this, I am by no means an expert and am only going off my memory, which is sketchy at best. There is a reason why I have the book for work, so I don't have to memorize all this stuff!!!

The main lines are 1" pex. I can certainly bore holes that size. Of course that would mean I'd have to get a plumber in to reroute all the lines. But now that you mention it, I remember the original plumber ran the lines thru bored holes in a partition wall upstairs. That was a thru a stud though, not a joist. Damn, I wish I had thought of this during construction.

Thanks, all.

 

[Clinton]

I found this from the Massachusetts building code which seems to say I can notch it:

3605.2.6.1 Drilling and notches: Notches in the
top or bottom of joists shall not exceed one-sixth
of the depth of the joist, shall not be longer than
one-third the depth of the member and shall not
be located in the middle third of the span. Notch
depth at the ends of the member shall not exceed
one-fourth the joist depth.

I'll still need a plumber to come in because the lines heading vertical off the header will need to be shortened somewhat.

 

[tuffy]

According to the website, You can also drill a hole no closer than 2" from either edge and run the pipe through it. Personally, I would opt for drilling over notching. If you notch, you have to install a safety plate over each notch to prevent yourself from running a screw into the pipe.