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building a humi from ply

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i'm probably going to build a 500 ~ 800 count humi (3'x2') out of cabinet grade a1 birch i have laying around... i will probably line it with 1/4" spanish cedar/mohagony core ply...
my questions: do i need to seal the birch? and should i get an electric humidity system? can i make poplar inserts/dividers or should they be spanish cedar as well?

thanks,
matt
 

Psojka RP,601

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Im gonna say that for best results, i would personally use all spanish cedar, but i know next-to-nothing about building your own (even tho i will one day, haha)

good luck man
 

funkejj

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Yeah when I built mine I used all spanish cedar. I would wait for answers from the experts as there are many here that have made cabinets and desktop humidors.
 

BGC

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Mahogany core Spanish cedar ply is fine. You wont find solid Spanish cedar ply in a 4x8 sheet. Mahogany has the same properties as the Spanish cedar (which technically isn't even cedar it's in the mahogany family any way) minus the aroma, but you get that with the veneer.
 
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Soundwave13

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It probably wouldn't hurt to seal the birch, but the Mahogany/cedar ply should be fine!

Let us see your progress - I would love to do this too!
 

Volusianator

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The cabinet grade plywood you have is fine, no need to seal the birch.

Just my opinion, but I think we worry sometimes way to much about the humidity in our humidors. Here's my rational, in my home during the summer, it can get much higher than the 65%RH I keep my humidor at, during the winter, considerably less. The fluctuation you have in your house is much greater than what will be inside your relatively stable humidor. Now that being said, you'll have a relative constant RH inside your cabinet and varying RH outside of it, so that's what will give you the greatest chance for failure. With that in mind, using Titebond III wood glue and paying 100% attention to detail in the construction of your cabinet in regard to joint fitment will make all the difference. I don't know what your woodworking skills are, but for me, I mark all my lines with a .5mm mechanical pencil and my goal when I make a cut is to still see half that line on the finished side, if I can leave myself that kind of "receipt" as I call it my accuracy will be right on.

Making that cabinet out of solid Spanish Cedar would not only be way overkill, but also freakin' expensive not to mention less stable than sheet goods. I've seen 3/8 solid Spanish Cedar panels get very moist and swell enough to break the mechanical and chemical joints on a case carcass, yes, even Spanish Cedar moves with moisture change. The plywood idea is ideal, it's much more stable as the grain on each ply is rotated 90 degrees to the ply it's facing, along with adhesives and a heated press to laminate them, they're very stable.

I have pics somewhere on the build process of mine, if I can find the link, I'll post it later.

Take pics, ask as many questions as you need, good luck and have fun.

Wade
 
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I would agree with Volusinator.Birch Ply is fine with no inside sealer. The 1/4" cedar/mahogany is also fine for the liner. I use something similar when I have converted existing cabinets to humidors. It is dimensionally stable & visually looks nice. I do arrange to have some solid cedar covering up the exposed edge in front if it is a faceless cabinet design. If you make a faceframe style, just cut to fit.

Sounds small enough that beads will work, but if your budget permits go with an active system for lower maintenance.

Have fun!!

Bob Staebell

The area I would suggest solid spanish cedar is for shelves, drawers, dividers, etc. That will give you a nice balance on cedar aroma.
 
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not sure if i'll make it frameless or not... it would be faster and easier...
if i make it framed i could make the rails and stiles out of scrap mohagony...
decisions, decisions
and how will i make the doors...
this humi will look like a deep upper cab, with some slides of coarse!
i got alot to think about
 
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The cabinet grade plywood you have is fine, no need to seal the birch.

Just my opinion, but I think we worry sometimes way to much about the humidity in our humidors. Here's my rational, in my home during the summer, it can get much higher than the 65%RH I keep my humidor at, during the winter, considerably less. The fluctuation you have in your house is much greater than what will be inside your relatively stable humidor. Now that being said, you'll have a relative constant RH inside your cabinet and varying RH outside of it, so that's what will give you the greatest chance for failure. With that in mind, using Titebond III wood glue and paying 100% attention to detail in the construction of your cabinet in regard to joint fitment will make all the difference. I don't know what your woodworking skills are, but for me, I mark all my lines with a .5mm mechanical pencil and my goal when I make a cut is to still see half that line on the finished side, if I can leave myself that kind of "receipt" as I call it my accuracy will be right on.

Making that cabinet out of solid Spanish Cedar would not only be way overkill, but also freakin' expensive not to mention less stable than sheet goods. I've seen 3/8 solid Spanish Cedar panels get very moist and swell enough to break the mechanical and chemical joints on a case carcass, yes, even Spanish Cedar moves with moisture change. The plywood idea is ideal, it's much more stable as the grain on each ply is rotated 90 degrees to the ply it's facing, along with adhesives and a heated press to laminate them, they're very stable.

I have pics somewhere on the build process of mine, if I can find the link, I'll post it later.

Take pics, ask as many questions as you need, good luck and have fun.

Wade
There you go.
 
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