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keithjjones

keithjjones

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Jim D said:
Kind of a box press shape, pyramid, very cool!
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That's sort of an optical illusion. I didn't completely cut off the foot wrapper so it looks box. It's definitely round. Waiting for them to dry now so I can try them. Those are the first two I've rolled that weren't parejo. You got to see the good and bad. I wish I made them a little longer, but oh well.

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webmost

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Don't like those trumpets. Too hard to light properly. A pyramid or salomon swells out wide, but then poinches in at the end, so you can light the narrow foot and let the cherry swell toward the wider barrel.
 
keithjjones

keithjjones

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Here is my new design. It has .75mm clearance, the closest you can safely go without post processing. I like the way this closes and hugs the stick from the top rather than mid point much better than my old design. Now I want to reprint all my molds. That'll take at least a week of print time.
 

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BrewinHooligan

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keithjjones said:
Here is my new design. It has .75mm clearance, the closest you can safely go without post processing. I like the way this closes and hugs the stick from the top rather than mid point much better than my old design. Now I want to reprint all my molds. That'll take at least a week of print time.
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That is the ideal closing design right there, the same way most professional molds close when you look at them. Now I'm gonna have to save my pennies so I can work out a deal for a 46rg mold from you. Nice work my friend!
 
keithjjones

keithjjones

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BrewinHooligan said:
That is the ideal closing design right there, the same way most professional molds close when you look at them. Now I'm gonna have to save my pennies so I can work out a deal for a 46rg mold from you. Nice work my friend!
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It took a lot of cad manipulation to do this so I can reproduce the design. I should be able to do any type of bunch now. I'm printing a double Perfecto right now.

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blisscigarco

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If I were making one for myself, I'd go for very-close-to-flush, .2 or w/e, something out of the tolerance of that printer, and then sand to taste. It'd be worth the effort to have near-ridgeless, glass-smooth bunches.

On a related topic, I wonder how wood molds have been traditionally milled: do you think they do tons of passes of different xyz locations with something like a .25" end mill, or just use a ball nose end mill the gauge of the slot and do a few passes along the length at different depths?
 
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keithjjones

keithjjones

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blisscigarco said:
If I were making one for myself, I'd go for very-close-to-flush, .2 or w/e, something out of the tolerance of that printer, and then sand to taste. It'd be worth the effort to have near-ridgeless, glass-smooth bunches.

On a related topic, I wonder how wood molds have been traditionally milled: do you think they do tons of passes of different xyz locations with something like a .25" end mill, or just use a bit the gauge of the slot and do a few passes along the length at different depths, for each half? My guess is that the traditional old school way with manual machines is just use an end mill the size of the slot, e.g. 44/64ths of an inch mill or w/e.
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I'm happy to print them that way, but the post processing work isn't something I'm interested in doing. A .2mm gap wood require a ton of post processing work and the walls are not that thick (less than 1mm). Personally, I'd make the gap bigger then use primer or epoxy filler to tighten it up. It would only get stronger doing it that way. I've printed 1000's of things and I've even belt sanded prints to finish them. It's a cluster mess doing it that way. It's way more work than it looks, if it's even possible, and 9 times out of 10 it ruins your print. There is just way too much heat related warping and inconsistent extrusion going on for tight tolerances below .75 in models like this.

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blisscigarco

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keithjjones said:
I'm happy to print them that way, but the post processing work isn't something I'm interested in doing. A .2mm gap wood require a ton of post processing work and the walls are not that thick (less than 1mm). Personally, I'd make the gap bigger then use primer or epoxy filler to tighten it up. It would only get stronger doing it that way. I've printed 1000's of things and I've even belt sanded prints to finish them. It's a cluster mess doing it that way. It's way more work than it looks, if it's even possible, and 9 times out of 10 it ruins your print. There is just way too much heat related warping and inconsistent extrusion going on for tight tolerances below .75 in models like this.

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Yeah, I see what you mean. I don't have any experience. I know how easy it is to break those skinny walls with sanding work, though. I have done that.
 
keithjjones

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blisscigarco said:
Yeah, I see what you mean. I don't have any experience. I know how easy it is to break those skinny walls with sanding work, though. I have done that.
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Also when you have two pieces that come together you have issues because the inner piece has to have some thickness, which is what causes ridges. I can't say any of my sticks have ridges after the wrapper goes on though.

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keithjjones

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As I replace my old molds with my new designs I may be tossing my previous versions. If anyone wanted them I could just as easily put them in a shipping box instead of recycling. Those who want to give me a shipping label and arrange for pickup (I could leave a box on my porch), first come first serve, can get them. I have a 44 round x8 stick, 54 x6 stick, 50 x6 stick, the pyramid version one on this thread from yesterday, and two 60 X2 stick. As I print out replacements I'll be ready to let the old ones go, piece by piece. It's likely going to take at least a week or two of printing all these. Let me know. All are in obvious used condition, but no more than about a month of rolling total.

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Hopduro

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keithjjones said:
As I replace my old molds with my new designs I may be tossing my previous versions. If anyone wanted them I could just as easily put them in a shipping box instead of recycling. Those who want to give me a shipping label and arrange for pickup (I could leave a box on my porch), first come first serve, can get them. I have a 44 round x8 stick, 54 x6 stick, 50 x6 stick, the pyramid version one on this thread from yesterday, and two 60 X2 stick. As I print out replacements I'll be ready to let the old ones go, piece by piece. It's likely going to take at least a week or two of printing all these. Let me know. All are in obvious used condition, but no more than about a month of rolling total.

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I mean, since you're offering... 54 is pretty close to the 52 i want

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