Ok, I just got to work about 10 minutes ago and wanted to let you all know that I'm OK. Our beaches here acctually face south instead of west, so we missed the huge swell. That however is probably good. The waves at the Wedge this morning were roughly double overhead and macking. I caught 2 waves in the short tme I was out, the first one I got was a beautiful side wave (previous wave bounces off the jetty perpendicular to the beach, then if it connects makes the Wedges you see in the pics) that connected perfectly to a roughly 12 foot face. The speed generated by the 2 waves connecting and pushing is amazing. I just set a line and held on, I saw it pitching over into a barrel and aimed right into it. There was no where to go and not really a good way to get out of it, so I just let it close out over me. It's an awesome feeling to be completly surounded by water, and breathing air. Then BOOM it smashed me a broke my leash. Better than my neck I guess.
After retriving my board I made the short paddle out and caught a slightly smaller version of the first. Not wanting to fight the "spin cycle" for a 2nd time, after getting the push from the connection I shot down the face of the wave and aimed at the lip so i could pull out. This thing must have launched me 10 feet out of the water over the back of the wave. My board got away from, and with out a leash I had to battle a bit to get out of the water and took a couple more right on the dome.
I have to say after those two waves, my day is complete. I stayed to watch a couple of the local pros for a bit. These guys are amazing. airial flips and spins on a wave that can break you in half if you are in the wrong place. I'm glad to say I went, but will not go ther tomorrow. I will hit a break that is a little less gnarly. thanks for listening.
After retriving my board I made the short paddle out and caught a slightly smaller version of the first. Not wanting to fight the "spin cycle" for a 2nd time, after getting the push from the connection I shot down the face of the wave and aimed at the lip so i could pull out. This thing must have launched me 10 feet out of the water over the back of the wave. My board got away from, and with out a leash I had to battle a bit to get out of the water and took a couple more right on the dome.
I have to say after those two waves, my day is complete. I stayed to watch a couple of the local pros for a bit. These guys are amazing. airial flips and spins on a wave that can break you in half if you are in the wrong place. I'm glad to say I went, but will not go ther tomorrow. I will hit a break that is a little less gnarly. thanks for listening.
