Like many other professional surfers, Kahanamoku and Hamilton were/are watermen. Other than his 3 Gold, 2 Silver, and 1 Bronze Olympic swimming medals, Kahanamoku was still a legend when competitive surfing didn't exist. He was a surfing ambassador more than anything. Hamilton has always stayed away from contest. He has always been his own man, and doesn't give a damn about the competitive surfing culture.
Being a professional surfer is a 365 24/7 job. The ASP Tour has an 11 month season. When these guys aren't competing, surfers are globe trotting looking for the biggest, knarliest, and most dangerous waves in the world. When they are doing it, these guys surf from sun-up to sundown. They battle waves that create energy that are only second to the energy of a nuclear explosion. All of this energy happens 3-5 ft above a razor sharp reef than can kill them instantly. Have you ever seen a single overweight and out of shape pro surfer. No, because they would die. Have you ever seen and overweight and out of shape athlete in other sports? You sure have!!
