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Wineador Finish Question

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I'm pretty handy with wood so I am building my own drawers. I have some spare walnut in the shop I would like to use for the drawer fronts. My concern is what to finish them with that won't affect the flavor of the cigars.

Are there any fellow woodworkers out there that might have suggestions?
 
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I just finished one of my speakers with wipe on poly about two weeks ago and it still has a slight odor. That was oil based though.
 
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I agree with Navyvet. Use a water-based varnish and no stain. Let it dry for a week or so. The other option is no finish at all. That way the walnut will absorb moisture and slowly release it when needed. I don't believe walnut will give off any flavors. But the varnish will look better.
 
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I'd go with a couple light coats of shellac. Dries fast and thin, so you can sand between coats. Get an alcohol based one, and there shouldn't be any smell. Then a quality wax to top it off. Let the walnut be walnut. I love working with walnut. A little brittle sometimes, but really looks good.
 
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Good call on the shellac. I hadn't thought of that. Odor is the biggest issue and I don't usually stain/dye walnut.
Ill take a little brittle all day after using wenge on my speakers. That stuff tried to kill me...twice.
 
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Yeah, don't use power tools with wenge. That dust is some serious stuff. I've only used it in little trim pieces and maybe a drawer front.
 
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It smells awesome when its cut--like cocoa. The downside to me is how brittle it is and the splinters....Oh the splinters...
Here's a pic of one of the speakers.20160715_045532.jpg
 

PetersCreek

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Since wine-a-dor drawers are protected by the door, I'm not so sure you need a film finish on the drawer fronts. I'd consider sanding to 320 (or better yet, use a card scraper) then pop the grain with an inoffensive oil such as butcher block, salad bowl, etc...which will leave a matte finish. For a soft sheen, you can top it with a quality paste wax but since virtually all of them use petroleum-based solvents, I'd let them off-gas for a goodly time before storing cigars in them. That shouldn't take too long though since you take most of the wax off in the buffing.

If you do opt for shellac, you might consider mixing your own from flakes and a quality denatured alcohol or even Everclear. Garnet shellac is the traditional choice for walnut but of course, you can use any color grade that suits your fancy.
 
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Since wine-a-dor drawers are protected by the door, I'm not so sure you need a film finish on the drawer fronts. I'd consider sanding to 320 (or better yet, use a card scraper) then pop the grain with an inoffensive oil such as butcher block, salad bowl, etc...which will leave a matte finish. For a soft sheen, you can top it with a quality paste wax but since virtually all of them use petroleum-based solvents, I'd let them off-gas for a goodly time before storing cigars in them. That shouldn't take too long though since you take most of the wax off in the buffing.

If you do opt for shellac, you might consider mixing your own from flakes and a quality denatured alcohol or even Everclear. Garnet shellac is the traditional choice for walnut but of course, you can use any color grade that suits your fancy.
That's what spooks me the most--off gassing. I have some pre/post cat conversion varnish that offgasses horribly for about a week then you can't smell anything after that. I can still smell the wipe on poly 3 weeks after application.
I was already planning to line the back of the drawer front with spanish cedar anyways, maybe I should just do it all in SC.
Makes me wonder what Forrest uses for his hardwood faces on his drawers.
 

PetersCreek

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That's what spooks me the most--off gassing. I have some pre/post cat conversion varnish that offgasses horribly for about a week then you can't smell anything after that. I can still smell the wipe on poly 3 weeks after application.
I was already planning to line the back of the drawer front with spanish cedar anyways, maybe I should just do it all in SC.
Makes me wonder what Forrest uses for his hardwood faces on his drawers.
Since we all test our finishing schedules anyway...right? right? :whistle:...you could wax a middling size scrap, let it cure out for 2-to-7 days, then seal it in a plastic bag for say, 24-48 hours to concentrate any residual off-gassing. Open. Sniff. Repeat until you detect nothing or you give up on the smell going away. Might work.

Back to shellac, I don't think you need worry about off-gassing...with caveats. The shellac itself is nontoxic and has no odor to speak of but the solvent sure as heck does. While the Bullseye aerosol shellac contains some petroleum products in the propellant, the solvent itself (and same for the canned stuff) is ethanol and isopropyl alcohol, which flash off pretty darned quickly...say, 24 hours or so for a typical thin application. If you mix your own from flakes, though, you might want to take care which denatured alcohol you use. In addition to ethanol, some of the home center flavors like Klean Strip in the blue/red can also contain 40-60% methanol. At the other end, Klean Strip Green contains <5% methanol and some folks on woodworking forums I frequent report that flakes dissolve more readily in the higher ethanol concentration. As far as I know, methanol off-gasses similar to ethanol but it does pose a significant neurological hazard during application, via skin absorption and inhalation. Typical precautions like good ventilation and protective gear are adequate but in my book, less icky stuff is a good thing. As I hinted upthread, though, you can avoid methanol altogether by using pure (or nearly pure) grain alcohol...and drink what you don't use.
 
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Sure I test my finishes first...
::ducks:: :)
I love your flakes/Everclear idea. We have a Woodcraft on the way home and the Wifey-to-Be does the liquor buying for a major liquor store.
My other thought is maybe use some waterbased stain/dye and use General Finishes Eduro for a sanding sealer then topcoat it with their Hi Po water based finish. Then I can just wait it out until there is no odor.
 

PetersCreek

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My other thought is maybe use some waterbased stain/dye and use General Finishes Eduro for a sanding sealer then topcoat it with their Hi Po water based finish. Then I can just wait it out until there is no odor.
Unfortunately, the shop that carried GF products closed a while back so I haven't tried Enduro yet...dangit.

Just to throw the idea out there, you could also add TransTint or similar dye to your shellac. I did that for a recent project, using TransTint "brown mahogany" in Bullseye amber, thinned to about a 1½ pound cut to go through my HVLP gun:


Click for larger version

But me, I wouldn't do that with walnut unless it was really pale. Or were you thinking about using dye just to warm the color similar to an oil-based finish?
 
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Yet another good idea with the Transtint! I made a pictue frame for the wifey using rustic walnut and some Arm R Seal. I like it but I would like to see it be a bit more of a warm brown. Maybe 2 or 3 shades darker than that. One of the boards has that wild grain you see around knots in walnut so I don't want to go too dark and obscure that.
 

PetersCreek

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One of the boards has that wild grain you see around knots in walnut so I don't want to go too dark and obscure that.
Agreed. I made a hall table a while back that I finished with boiled linseed oil and Waterlox. The top had a lot of curly figure in it and I was really pleased how the simple finish brought it out. You can see a few pics in the Spring Home Projects thread. A bit further down the thread, you'll find my current project that's also in walnut and will get the same finishing schedule.
 
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Agreed. I made a hall table a while back that I finished with boiled linseed oil and Waterlox. The top had a lot of curly figure in it and I was really pleased how the simple finish brought it out. You can see a few pics in the Spring Home Projects thread. A bit further down the thread, you'll find my current project that's also in walnut and will get the same finishing schedule.
Whoaaa!!! Awesome work! Gorgeous figured grain on that table. You have a great eye for boards!
Speakingof eyes, did I spy some Veritas planes in there somewhere? :)
I found some spectacularly figured air dried walnut boards in Pueblo, CO of all places. Super dark with pink and purple ribboning. Unreal. 15 bucks a bf and worth every penny. Just no enough and too pricey for my up and coming entertainment center.
 

BigSkySmoke

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2 things I've used on walnut with awesome results. Watco Danish oil for a less glossy and natural look. I did a slab and wet sanded it and love the way it looked, but a couple years and it needs a touch up.I usually only get the "natural" blend, since the others have more dyes in them. Waterlox is a more moisture resistance and clean glossy look. They make a low VOC mix, but I've never used it personally. It had a pretty strong odor for a week or 2, but nothing after that. Grain really pops with the waterlox and probably hold up really good with the constant humidity.
The original blend looks amazing on walnut and really holds up.
https://www.waterlox.com/project-help/guide?id=547bc7c9-c970-4321-9049-2834130fde19&q=
 
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