surf's up!
- Thread starter jwintosh
- Start date
I body board, but yes I wax my board. Nothing worse than sliding off your board on a 15 fooot wave.
Volusianator
BoM Nov '07 & Jan '09
I've only "surfed" twice in my life, once when I was a young boy, in MN on lake Winnibigoshih, there were big waves for a lake and we found a driftwood plank that held us afloat. The second was a few years back at a waterpark that had one of those uphill wave machine things that you rode a body board on. If I ever loose a ton or two, the real deal would be fun to try sometime.
This is where I'll be at lunch today. If it's not closed out, I may have to take half a day off. Hopefully i will be doing more of the last two pictures and less of the first couple of shots. The last picture is of a wave during a 12-15 foot swell last year. The swell today is roughly the same size and direction. I am hoping to catch one wave with out getting pounded. The ocean floor is only about 4-6 feet below the surface of the water, maybe 8 feet on a big day like this.
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I just got home from morning set up my way. It was good. Waiting for the OC swell to come up here. Only 6' here.
Volusianator
BoM Nov '07 & Jan '09
What do you mean "closed out"? Is it just that they have the beach closed or the waves aren't there?
It means that the face of the wave won't allow you to ride it. It crashes down like a big wall. No Tube! lol..
Come on out Wade, we will teach you to surf!
Closed out, refers to the wave breaking all at once with no shoulder to ride. Also called "walled up" like a big wall falling down. The case today was more like a really f'd up wall. I heard a little north is alot better.
You guys are killin me on the west coast. This is the kinda boardin I'm talkin about...
Good news !!! I can surf in the morning and get in the car and an hour and half later can be on a snowboard in the local mountains. Granted our local mountains are not Mammoth or Park City, or Tahoe, but they are close by. I plan to surf and ski a couple of times this year. I don't think The local mountains haven't opened yet, because of the lack of precipitation this year.
Don't worry, Pray, but don't worry. The thing about the wedge is that you are only about 20 yards of shore, so when you get pounded you don't have that far to swim inorder to get out.
yeah, unless you get pounded and dragged out.... remember young skywalker, feel the current. be one with the current. swim with the current, even if you've got the wind knocked out of you.... may the force by with you.... and someone on shore with a camera!!
oh yeah, be careful!
oh yeah, be careful!
